Day of the rapids!

We left camp at 6am and headed straight for the chute and roller coaster on Isaac lake.  The actual rapids were great fun and it was nice to have a change of water flow that actually helped us head down stream rather than paddling on still water (or into a headwind).

As we headed down towards the log jam at McLeary lake. You have to be careful here to prevent the canoe from filling with water and potentially overturning. 

There was a really hard portage by the Isaac River falls but a good chance to take a breather and take photos of the waterfall before continuing on to McLeary lake, another portage and then Lanezi lake and finally Sandy lake.

We stopped at 10am for a well-deserved porridge breakfast and coffee.

The weather was awful all day and so much of our energy was concentrated on just carrying on paddling. We were all cold, soaked and exhausted when we reached the beautiful campsite on Sandy lake (Camp 34).

Sitting round the campfire we all dried clothes out (socks pushed on to sticks and trousers hung off an obliging tree). We all headed off to bed early as we were shattered from paddling for 11 hours!

Isaac lake

We set off from our camp at 6am, a quick cereal bar and packing up our tents then off to camp 23 for a scheduled porridge and coffee stop.

Due to our mammoth paddle yesterday, we have an easy day ahead and this is a great feeling. We are paddling along Isaac lake today.  The lake was officially named in 1936 after gold prospector George Isaac although had been known informally by that names for many years.  Presumably he had found gold in the area. The lake is vast a good 20-30km and has a range of vistas.

Along the circuit each campsite has a fire pit and there are wood stores, so we collected wood en route to camp 26 and unloaded this from our canoes.
In the wilderness, a camp fire really is a fantastic asset and everyone looks forward to sitting by the warmth of the fire after a cold wet day on the river. The campfire at Isaac lake was one of my favourites and with the view of the Wolverine mountains towering over us, it was the perfect opportunity to wallow in the peace of the wilderness and think about everything and nothing.

"Sometimes my camping trips are an excuse to satisfy the urge to sit and stare into the flames of a camp fire. There is life in a camp fire, and a primitive pleasure in watching it come alive". B, Mason

As we were relatively fresh from the paddle today it was easy to set up camp; we unpacked our wet tents from last night and pitched them to dry in the sun.  The weather here is unpredictable, one minute bright sunshine the next pouring with rain.

We had a couple of visitors today; a young moose and the ranger service.  The rangers said it was probably only a year and a half old.  It was very tall and walked up to us to see what we were doing then went off. Amazing!

We spent a lazy afternoon on the beach, reading, writing diaries and generally relaxing in preparation for tomorrow.  The rangers asked us to travel to campsite 38 at Sandy lake tomorrow, so we have a 25km journey, which will include the rapids! These will need to be negotiated carefully to prevent capsizing. 

I really missed my children today; I really want to bring them here to experience the ambiance of the place. I wrote their names on pebbles, rested them on some driftwood and took a photo of them with the impressive Wolverine mountains in the background so they knew I was thinking of them.

Paddling from Kibbee creek to Isaac lake

Today was huge; we paddled from orientation at 9am to 7.30pm, this meant we paddled across Kibbee lake, Indianpoint lake and half way down Isaac lake.  The campsites from the start of Isaac lake had been full so we had no option but to carry on and arrived at camp 21 on Isaac lake just before a huge storm. We were all tired and soaked but had to get the tents put up promptly and our waterproofs on.

I felt much better after having some food and with the campfire roaring we dried off quite quickly. Bed by 8.30pm and the best nights sleep I have had in Canada so far.  

The beauty of the Bowron lakes is hard to describe.  I loved Isaac lake it was so huge and peaceful. My friend Jenny said it looked like we were paddling through the sky and I think that's a pretty good description, as the water was so still and the reflections flawless.

Reflections so far

It's amazing the impact a trip like this has on you. I am still getting recurring dreams from our night at the emergency shelter at Chin beach, which we shared with the Chin beach rats and a cougar (scratching at the walls and growling outside). At the time we thought it was paradise on earth, but on reflection it truly was rather awful! We spent much of the night chasing the rats off our rucksacks and trying to keep the wildlife outside at bay. In my dreams I wake up sweltering with my sleeping bag pulled firmly under my chin... Like that would keep them out!

The Hilton at Chin Beach

A half stable door the only thing that lay between us and a cougar :)

My bed in rat alley with all mod cons (a washing line)

The best impact has been discovering a love of paddling! I had thought my favourite activity would have been trekking, but canoeing is infinitely better! I am amazed I have not discovered this before, but there is something rather alluring to paddling in the wilderness and being totally free from modern distractions.

 Plans are in the pipeline already to continue with open canoeing back in the UK - (Update: Rivers Spey and Tay have since been explored when I participated on a expedition with the KMC students in April 2015).

The Song of the Paddle is a well known book amongst open canoeists. It is written by Bill Mason and is subtitled “An Illustrated Guide to Wilderness Camping”. So although it is a book about open canoeing it is also about the exploring of wild places in your canoe.

Our campsite on Issac lake (my favourite)- an evening in front of the fire

In the UK our wild places are fewer and less wild than Bill had in Canada but even here, when out in your open canoe you can get to feel more at one with nature and escape from the ties of modern life. This is as true with a few snatched hours on the local lake or loch as it is on a multi-day camping adventure.

“Odysseus ordered his men to plug their ears when they sailed by the island of the Sirens so they would not be lured to their destruction on the offshore rocks by the sea nymphs' irresistible song. In order to hear the song, Odysseus asked his men to lash him to the mast. I know all about this sort of thing because I hear a song like that of the Sirens every spring when the ice on the rivers begins to break up.

Years ago in the heart of Winnipeg, Manitoba, I would be working at my desk in a commercial art studio, hear the song, hand in my two weeks' notice and get my outfit ready. My parents thought I would outgrow it but I never did. If anything, the song is becoming louder and more insistent with the passing years. Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning; others hear it in the middle of a roaring rapids. Sometimes the excitement drowns out the song. The thrills become all that matter as we seek one rapid after another. Sleeping, eating and living outdoors become something we do between rapids. But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of the tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest, after I have paddled and portaged for many miles to some distant, hidden place."  Bill Mason

Our view from outside Wendle cabin, doesn't get much better than that!

Bowron lakes orientation

(The Bowron lakes has no phone reception or internet, which was actually rather lovely, but means I could not update my blog so please forgive the delayed report).

Orientation of the Bowron lakes is compulsory and involves individuals or groups attending the Ranger station to watch a video about the 'do's and don'ts' for the park and to register. There is also a display area in the centre where you can find out more about the area and wildlife.

If you are travelling to use the lakes you have two options; to register as a group (limited to 14 people) or as as individuals (up to a max of six).  The main difference between the two is that individuals can camp at any of the camp grounds, whereas groups have to book ahead and are allocated places to stay.  As far as we could see if you register as groups you must canoe the circuit in 7 days.  This may not suit all visitors, so you may consider registering as several individuals to give you greater flexibility.

The thought of carrying food for 7 days being my main concern as it is very heavy!

Between the series of lakes are portages, where you have to push, pull or carry your canoe.  Day one has the longest portages with a 2km and a 2.8km.  The weight limit allowed in the canoe is about 28kg as I recall  and any other bags or equipment must be carried.  The rangers weigh your kit at the start of the trip and tag your boat with what you are allowed to carry in the boat (such as large red bag), so other rangers can check you are not breaking the rules.  The reason for the weight limit is to limit the impact on the portage trails, which at times are exceptionally rutted and steep.

Our group found it necessary at times to line the canoes up and take a group to push them through the rough terrain.  The portages are physically quite challenging and so I was pleased we had a set of wheels to put the canoe on.  Only ten or so years ago, all canoes were carried....

The Bowron lakes are named after a noted pioneer called John Bowron.  He died in 1906 but held many prominent positions with the community including postmaster and Gold commissioner.  He was one of the first pioneers to cross Canada by land and travelled from Victoria to Barkerville in 1864. These people must have been very resilient; even with our modern technology parts of the countryside here are immensely challenging.

The rangers gave us a few tips on wildlife management (bear spray is allowed but no fire arms).  This area has a range of wildlife including moose, cariboo, cougars, black and grizzly bears.

We also received an orange litter bag per boat and told to take everything out with us 'pack it in, pack it out' camping.

Each designated campsite has a bear cache, a fire pit, a stash of wood and camping pads.  Don't get carried away though these are very basic facilities and an axe to chop the wood is essential. After a long hard day in the canoe, the campfire was appreciated by us all and especially good for drying your socks!

Depending on the amount of days you plan to do the trip in (it is 116km) you should expect to be canoeing for most of the day, we averaged about 8 hours a day and if the wind is against you it can take longer.

I had been told how stunning the lakes are and I have to say no photograph I have taken can do it justice.  The tranquility and size of the area is breathtaking.  One of my fellow expeditioners said the collosal size  of the mountains made them feel like an ant; indeed all the mountains on the lake are bigger than anything in the UK at 2000m or higher.  I can think of no other place I would rather be than the Bowron lakes.  It is an excellent destination (for all abilities and learning needs) and I would strongly recommend a visit.