28 July 2012
Road trip
Jenny and I have had the most amazing journey across British Columbia en route from Vancouver Island to the Bowron lakes: Like a Canadian Thelma and Louise!
We stopped in Whistler briefly to refuel and this coincided with the lighting of the Olympic flame in London. They showed the event on big tv screens; Whistler hosted the 2010 Winter Olympics and has long term reminders of the event including the Olympic village with some impressive Olympic rings!
The magnificent Sea to sky highway brought us from Vancouver to Bowron; it passes through Indian reserves where we have driven for over 200km seeing no towns of people just stunning mountain backdrops.
We were treated to the most spectacular thunderstorm last night, which silhouetted the mountains as we drove into the night....16 hours travelling yesterday and another 6 to go. The sheer size of the landscape is humbling.
We slept in a layby by a lake then hit the road early, now on the Cariboo highway passing ranches and wildlife. No cariboos yet!
We stopped in Whistler briefly to refuel and this coincided with the lighting of the Olympic flame in London. They showed the event on big tv screens; Whistler hosted the 2010 Winter Olympics and has long term reminders of the event including the Olympic village with some impressive Olympic rings!
The magnificent Sea to sky highway brought us from Vancouver to Bowron; it passes through Indian reserves where we have driven for over 200km seeing no towns of people just stunning mountain backdrops.
We were treated to the most spectacular thunderstorm last night, which silhouetted the mountains as we drove into the night....16 hours travelling yesterday and another 6 to go. The sheer size of the landscape is humbling.
We slept in a layby by a lake then hit the road early, now on the Cariboo highway passing ranches and wildlife. No cariboos yet!
26 July 2012
Day 5 Port Renfrew
We've been chatting with the locals today in Port Renfrew and gathering information to take home.
The little town offers hikers the start or finish ( depending which way you go) for the Juan de Fuca trail and the West coast trail.
The Port Renfrew end of the WCT is the hardest part while it is the easier end of the Juan de Fuca trail.
We've been informed that the JdeF trail is always muddy no matter what time of year you do it. The mid section from around 16km to 33km is in very poor condition and the terrain is very challenging.
As there are limited places to get off the trail, from bear beach to sombrio beach you are committed to staying on the trail. We came across some foreign hikers who had come with day packs and no map from Parkinson creek to chin beach and were keen to leave the trail. They carried on towards bear beach but they would need to continue to chin beach before being able to reach a trailhead ( a 37km hike)!
There are excellent camping options on the beach opposite port Renfrew. The land is owned by the Pacheenaht Indian band. A water taxi operates from Port Renfrew to Bamfield and further information can be obtained by contacting the Juan de Fuca express (E: juanfuca@island.net).
Evann at Port Renfrew offers an informal taxi service (tel: 250-647-0071) should you require a lift from the trailheads at sombrio beach, Parkinson creek or botanical bay.
The west coast trailbus stops off at the trailhead entrances twice each day ( in the morning and evening) so this is an ideal escape option and the bus can be flagged down if you have not reserved a place. It can accommodate up to 15 hikers and kit.
There is a choice of accommodation in Port Renfrew and we would recommend stopping here at one stage of your trip.
We stayed in the West coast trail motel, which we would highly recommend, especially Don's breakfasts! There is adequate space to fit an expedition team with a choice of cabins or shared rooms.
Directly in front of the motel is hikers parking for the west coast and JdeF trails.
Www.portrenfrewresorts.com
17310 Parkinson's road
Port renfrew
British Columbia
Tel 1-250 647 5541
The locals tell us that there are 56 eligible bachelors here out of a population of 190 and told us to please send some single ladies!!!
The little town offers hikers the start or finish ( depending which way you go) for the Juan de Fuca trail and the West coast trail.
The Port Renfrew end of the WCT is the hardest part while it is the easier end of the Juan de Fuca trail.
We've been informed that the JdeF trail is always muddy no matter what time of year you do it. The mid section from around 16km to 33km is in very poor condition and the terrain is very challenging.
As there are limited places to get off the trail, from bear beach to sombrio beach you are committed to staying on the trail. We came across some foreign hikers who had come with day packs and no map from Parkinson creek to chin beach and were keen to leave the trail. They carried on towards bear beach but they would need to continue to chin beach before being able to reach a trailhead ( a 37km hike)!
There are excellent camping options on the beach opposite port Renfrew. The land is owned by the Pacheenaht Indian band. A water taxi operates from Port Renfrew to Bamfield and further information can be obtained by contacting the Juan de Fuca express (E: juanfuca@island.net).
Evann at Port Renfrew offers an informal taxi service (tel: 250-647-0071) should you require a lift from the trailheads at sombrio beach, Parkinson creek or botanical bay.
The west coast trailbus stops off at the trailhead entrances twice each day ( in the morning and evening) so this is an ideal escape option and the bus can be flagged down if you have not reserved a place. It can accommodate up to 15 hikers and kit.
There is a choice of accommodation in Port Renfrew and we would recommend stopping here at one stage of your trip.
We stayed in the West coast trail motel, which we would highly recommend, especially Don's breakfasts! There is adequate space to fit an expedition team with a choice of cabins or shared rooms.
Directly in front of the motel is hikers parking for the west coast and JdeF trails.
Www.portrenfrewresorts.com
17310 Parkinson's road
Port renfrew
British Columbia
Tel 1-250 647 5541
The locals tell us that there are 56 eligible bachelors here out of a population of 190 and told us to please send some single ladies!!!
25 July 2012
Day 4 Botanical beach
Today we walked 14km to Botanical beach. This is a stunning area and is the last part of the Juan de Fuca trail. The path is good and we found this the best of the entire trail as there was a clear path. Local youth groups from the area built the last 3km of the trail and had added boardwalks over the creeks to make it easier to traverse.
Sea mist prevented any large marine wildlife spotting in botanical bay but we did see a blue heron fishing by the shore, it was about 1 metre tall. We also saw starfish, sea anemones, tadpoles and mussels in the tide pools and humming birds at Port Renfrew.
You cannot camp near here so we travelled back to Port Renfrew after finishing the trail. It is an additional 4km walk uphill and quite tricky on tired legs.
The little town of Port Renfrew is idyllic and a real treat; the people we have met here have been incredibly helpful and friendly. We are stopping one night then catch the west coast trail bus back to Victoria.
Sea mist prevented any large marine wildlife spotting in botanical bay but we did see a blue heron fishing by the shore, it was about 1 metre tall. We also saw starfish, sea anemones, tadpoles and mussels in the tide pools and humming birds at Port Renfrew.
You cannot camp near here so we travelled back to Port Renfrew after finishing the trail. It is an additional 4km walk uphill and quite tricky on tired legs.
The little town of Port Renfrew is idyllic and a real treat; the people we have met here have been incredibly helpful and friendly. We are stopping one night then catch the west coast trail bus back to Victoria.
24 July 2012
Day 2 Bear beach to Chin beach
It's ok we're used to the rain, being British... But trekking in it all day up the unrelenting steep ravines into muddy creeks was something else!
We managed 11.5 km today in 8 hours and it was the hardest trek I have ever done. My pack was much better today, not sure whether I just packed it better or having eaten some rations made it lighter!
The highlight of the day was the makeshift wooden bridges over the creeks; seeing seals playing in the ocean and the most enormous cedar trees reaching high into the sky.
We reached the emergency shelter at high tide so decided to make camp before our legs gave way!
What the guidebook doesn't say about Chin beach is the massive rats. We were joined at 1am by 'Roland' the shelter rat who kept us awake trying to climb over our stuff. He disappeared at about 3am when a loud scratching and growling sound came from outside the hut. It was a cougar. As there was no secure doorway Jenny and I retreated to the highest bunk and left Roland to his fate ( he was ok in the morning).
We managed 11.5 km today in 8 hours and it was the hardest trek I have ever done. My pack was much better today, not sure whether I just packed it better or having eaten some rations made it lighter!
The highlight of the day was the makeshift wooden bridges over the creeks; seeing seals playing in the ocean and the most enormous cedar trees reaching high into the sky.
We reached the emergency shelter at high tide so decided to make camp before our legs gave way!
What the guidebook doesn't say about Chin beach is the massive rats. We were joined at 1am by 'Roland' the shelter rat who kept us awake trying to climb over our stuff. He disappeared at about 3am when a loud scratching and growling sound came from outside the hut. It was a cougar. As there was no secure doorway Jenny and I retreated to the highest bunk and left Roland to his fate ( he was ok in the morning).
Day 1 Juan de Fuca trail
Today we walked from China beach to Bear beach a 10km stretch of the trail. There is a mixture of forest trails and beach hiking.
The trip took us just under 5 hours and we were both shattered when we reached camp. The incoming tide prevented us travelling further so we stopped in the campsite by Rosemond creek. An idyllic spot!
The terrain has been hard-going made worse by landslides in places and fallen trees making us divert our path. Our packs are making it harder too; they are very heavy and negotiating steep ground requires a lot of concentration.
Our spirits are high and we have a great camp spot for the night so no complaints!
There have been a dozen or so other Trekkers on route and there are three groups camping on the beach this evening including us.
The trip took us just under 5 hours and we were both shattered when we reached camp. The incoming tide prevented us travelling further so we stopped in the campsite by Rosemond creek. An idyllic spot!
Jenny at start of the trek
Lucy filtering stream water
Our spirits are high and we have a great camp spot for the night so no complaints!
There have been a dozen or so other Trekkers on route and there are three groups camping on the beach this evening including us.
Day 3 Chin beach to Sombrio beach
I do not see any reason why you would go out of your way to visit Chin beach; the route to it in both directions is very hard but Sombrio beach is stunning.
Having walked the mere 8km trail here today you might think it an easy days stroll, but this part of the trail is horrendous!
From about 25km to 29km it is one landslip/mudslide after another. No flat ground at all just uphill slog and down hill slip. With a pack it was ridiculously hard and we spent most of it crawling on our knees. Jenny and I are both covered in bruises where we slid in the mud.
The highlight of today's trail was the beautiful suspension bridge and the beautifully tranquil Sombrio beach.
We arrived at Sombrio beach and had a chat with a local photographer who was taking photos of grey whales. He told us that the forest trail further up west Sombrio beach was closed due to landslides. It was high tide so we were trapped as the coastal route was blocked by the tide.
As we have a fixed amount of time we made a call and decided to walk a further 2km to Sombrio beach trail head where we could maybe catch a lift and walk back on ourselves from the other end of the Juan de Fuca trail.
Two very muddy, smelly women who had not washed for days did not seem an appealing option for a lift.
As luck may have it (or call it fate) up drove Anthony a Frenchman on holiday in a new mustang GT ( I swear I'm not making this up- we have photos!)
He very kindly loaded our filthy packs and us into the lovely clean car and drove us to Port Renfrew. In return we bought him a beer and offered him camping advice for along the trail as well as shared our knowledge of the area as he was looking to do a two day trek himself.
Having walked the mere 8km trail here today you might think it an easy days stroll, but this part of the trail is horrendous!
The highlight of today's trail was the beautiful suspension bridge and the beautifully tranquil Sombrio beach.
We arrived at Sombrio beach and had a chat with a local photographer who was taking photos of grey whales. He told us that the forest trail further up west Sombrio beach was closed due to landslides. It was high tide so we were trapped as the coastal route was blocked by the tide.
As we have a fixed amount of time we made a call and decided to walk a further 2km to Sombrio beach trail head where we could maybe catch a lift and walk back on ourselves from the other end of the Juan de Fuca trail.
As luck may have it (or call it fate) up drove Anthony a Frenchman on holiday in a new mustang GT ( I swear I'm not making this up- we have photos!)
He very kindly loaded our filthy packs and us into the lovely clean car and drove us to Port Renfrew. In return we bought him a beer and offered him camping advice for along the trail as well as shared our knowledge of the area as he was looking to do a two day trek himself.
21 July 2012
Good morning Vancouver
We have been up early today (5.30am) partly due to our body clocks being all over the place and also to get ready for the day ahead.
Jenny and I will be off to catch the ferry to Vancouver island soon so spending our last few hours in Vancouver doing some last minute shopping and packing rucksacks.
I've ditch some of my kit here as could only just lift my pack - its much too heavy really almost half my bodyweight!
The Hostel in Vancouver made us a hearty breakfast so we should be well set.
The team are building up their bikes; a few casualties from the journey but generally they are ok.
Jenny and I will be off to catch the ferry to Vancouver island soon so spending our last few hours in Vancouver doing some last minute shopping and packing rucksacks.
I've ditch some of my kit here as could only just lift my pack - its much too heavy really almost half my bodyweight!
The Hostel in Vancouver made us a hearty breakfast so we should be well set.
The team are building up their bikes; a few casualties from the journey but generally they are ok.
12 July 2012
Bowron lakes route planning and timescale
Jenny and I will be paddling the Bowron lakes in an open canoe. Our route plan is as follows:
Day One
Bowron lake registration centre to Camp 7 (Indianpoint Lake)
Day Two
Indianpoint to Camp 21 (Isaac Lake)
Day Three
Isaac Lake to Camp 28 (Isaac Lake)
Day Four
Isaac Lake to Camp 37a (Sandy lake)
Day Five
Sandy Lake to Camp 47 or finish
Day One
Bowron lake registration centre to Camp 7 (Indianpoint Lake)
Day Two
Indianpoint to Camp 21 (Isaac Lake)
Day Three
Isaac Lake to Camp 28 (Isaac Lake)
Day Four
Isaac Lake to Camp 37a (Sandy lake)
Day Five
Sandy Lake to Camp 47 or finish
Packing and kit list
I have been packing my rucksack today for the trip.
My pack weighs 26kg when full, it is almost half of my body weight and just over the flight limit of 23kg so hand luggage will need to be utilised. I'm going to wear my heaviest clothes and walking boots on the flight!
Here is my kit list.
.JPG)
Kit list:
Head torch and spare batteries
Waterproof trousers and jacket
Gaiters
Fleeces x 3
Sunhat
Thermal hat
Thin gloves
Thick gloves
Socks x 3
Buff
T- shirts (not cotton) x 3
Base layer x 2
Underwear x 4
Leggins
Shorts
Trousers x 2
Down jacket
Wellies
Walking boots
Flip flops
Swim costume
Small notebook and pen
Bear spray and holder
Sleeping bag and liner
Thermarest
Pillow case
Water bottle x 2
Maps
Books x 2
Route cards
Tide times
Compass
Walking poles
First aid kit
Small towel
Soap non scented
Toothpaste (bi- carb)
Spare Lithium batteries
SPOT Satellite personal tracker
Solar charger
Long matches
Mug and spoon
Saucepan
Pocket rocker cooker
Water filter
Bug repellant (Deet)
Steri tabs (for emergency if water filter fails)
Spare laces
Pen knife
Washing up sponge (small)
Bear bells
Tissues
Spare zip lock bags
Bear barrel with trek food rations
Universal plug adapter
Camera charger
The bear barrel will be used for carrying all food, toiletries and scented items like toothpaste and suncream. It will also be used to carry any waste material we produce so that we can dispose of it at an appropriate place. The rules for the trail and Bowron lakes are 'pack it in, pack it out'. We will not be burying or burning items on the trail.
I have used a stuff sack and zip lock bags for the non food items in the bear barrel to keep it all separate from the food.
My pack weighs 26kg when full, it is almost half of my body weight and just over the flight limit of 23kg so hand luggage will need to be utilised. I'm going to wear my heaviest clothes and walking boots on the flight!
Here is my kit list.
.JPG)
Kit list:
Head torch and spare batteries
Waterproof trousers and jacket
Gaiters
Fleeces x 3
Sunhat
Thermal hat
Thin gloves
Thick gloves
Socks x 3
Buff
T- shirts (not cotton) x 3
Base layer x 2
Underwear x 4
Leggins
Shorts
Trousers x 2
Down jacket
Wellies
Walking boots
Flip flops
Swim costume
Small notebook and pen
Bear spray and holder
Sleeping bag and liner
Thermarest
Pillow case
Water bottle x 2
Maps
Books x 2
Route cards
Tide times
Compass
Walking poles
First aid kit
Small towel
Soap non scented
Toothpaste (bi- carb)
Spare Lithium batteries
SPOT Satellite personal tracker
Solar charger
Long matches
Mug and spoon
Saucepan
Pocket rocker cooker
Water filter
Bug repellant (Deet)
Steri tabs (for emergency if water filter fails)
Spare laces
Pen knife
Washing up sponge (small)
Bear bells
Tissues
Spare zip lock bags
Bear barrel with trek food rations
Universal plug adapter
Camera charger
The bear barrel will be used for carrying all food, toiletries and scented items like toothpaste and suncream. It will also be used to carry any waste material we produce so that we can dispose of it at an appropriate place. The rules for the trail and Bowron lakes are 'pack it in, pack it out'. We will not be burying or burning items on the trail.
I have used a stuff sack and zip lock bags for the non food items in the bear barrel to keep it all separate from the food.
1 July 2012
Keep track of our progress
We are very lucky to have been loaned a GPS SPOT Messenger device by Stuart Lansdale - Thank you Stuart!
This will allow us to check in regularly and also publish our trek online. We will keep the tracker on while completing the trek so that it reports our location at 10 minute intervals. On the rest of the expedition we will check in at least once a day.
The page to follow our GPS check ins is:
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0u7ySFOIqLGxTeYEf2HTPFoyAd4qneLse
(As we haven't gone yet it may not have anything on there yet!)
This will allow us to check in regularly and also publish our trek online. We will keep the tracker on while completing the trek so that it reports our location at 10 minute intervals. On the rest of the expedition we will check in at least once a day.
The page to follow our GPS check ins is:
http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0u7ySFOIqLGxTeYEf2HTPFoyAd4qneLse
(As we haven't gone yet it may not have anything on there yet!)
Route planning
Jenny and I have been studying our maps and books to plan our route along the Juan de Fuca trail. It will take us 5 days.
Day 1
China Beach trailhead to Bear Beach
(10.5km)
5-7 hours intermediate
Open forest and beach hiking
High tide at 3am and 4pm
Day 2
Bear Beach to Chin Beach
(10.5km)
5-8 hours most difficult
forest on hilly terrain, beach hiking
High tide at 3.30am and 4.40pm
Day 3
Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach
(8km)
4-6 hours difficult
Forest, beach, old gravel road
High tide at 4.30am and 5.20pm
Day 4
Sombrio beach to Parkinson Creek
(8km)
4-6 hours intermediate
Boulder beach; rough dense low-bush trail; forest; old logging road; trail above cliff; boardwalk
High tide at 5.30am and 6pm
Day 5
Parkinson creek to Botanical Beach trailhead
(10km)
4-6 hours intermediate
Logging road, mature forest, reef shelf, beach
High tide at 6.40am and 7pm
We will be arriving using the Trail bus at about 7.30am on day 1 which gives us a good start for the first days walking and we should be in camp by 2pm ready to prepare for day 2 which is the most challenging. We will make an early start each day so that we will arrive in camp by early afternoon. This will allow us to plan the next days hike and get a good camping spot.
Sombrio Beach
Tide times will be important along the trail at Bear Beach we may be delayed as the beach cut off is impassable at high tide and we will be arriving there at high tide! Also at Sombrio beach the alternate hiking route has experienced a slope failure so we will have to use the beach at low tide. (29.3-29.9km section of trail). We have a window between 8am and 1pm on day 3 to get across this section.
Day 1
China Beach trailhead to Bear Beach
(10.5km)
5-7 hours intermediate
Open forest and beach hiking
High tide at 3am and 4pm
Day 2
Bear Beach to Chin Beach
(10.5km)
5-8 hours most difficult
forest on hilly terrain, beach hiking
High tide at 3.30am and 4.40pm
Day 3
Chin Beach to Sombrio Beach
(8km)
4-6 hours difficult
Forest, beach, old gravel road
High tide at 4.30am and 5.20pm
Day 4
Sombrio beach to Parkinson Creek
(8km)
4-6 hours intermediate
Boulder beach; rough dense low-bush trail; forest; old logging road; trail above cliff; boardwalk
High tide at 5.30am and 6pm
Day 5
Parkinson creek to Botanical Beach trailhead
(10km)
4-6 hours intermediate
Logging road, mature forest, reef shelf, beach
High tide at 6.40am and 7pm
We will be arriving using the Trail bus at about 7.30am on day 1 which gives us a good start for the first days walking and we should be in camp by 2pm ready to prepare for day 2 which is the most challenging. We will make an early start each day so that we will arrive in camp by early afternoon. This will allow us to plan the next days hike and get a good camping spot.
Tide times will be important along the trail at Bear Beach we may be delayed as the beach cut off is impassable at high tide and we will be arriving there at high tide! Also at Sombrio beach the alternate hiking route has experienced a slope failure so we will have to use the beach at low tide. (29.3-29.9km section of trail). We have a window between 8am and 1pm on day 3 to get across this section.
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